How to style a lapel pin

Once you've picked out your favorite pins to wear, what's the best way to style them? The placement, size, and occasion make all the difference.

Where exactly on the lapel

Pins are placed ideally level over the lapel buttonhole, on the left lapel on your suit jacket, blazer, or overcoat, or as close as the jacket allows. The pin should run parallel to the lapel edge and on the left side only, even with double-breasted jackets. Ideal placement ensures the lapel remains an embellishment and not a distraction.

Why the left

On your eighteenth-century coats, the top button was used against the weather, and when the lapel was rolled back permanently, the hole remained. In other words, the lapel buttonhole on the suit is a working buttonhole that lost function over the ages. Everything decorative that has since been put on a lapel, e.g., a boutonniere, a regimental badge, a poppy, an enamel pin, is placed where that hole already was.

Military and civic practice reinforced the style changes. Orders, decorations and medals are worn on the left breast in most Western traditions, so badges and pins sit on the same side.

Rare circumstances

With some coat stitching, the lapel buttonhole placement is more of an afterthought, or too close to the lapel edge. This is common on softer sport coats and on almost everything unstructured. In these scenarios, it's more acceptable to secure the pin through the lapel itself, an inch or so above where the buttonhole would be, wherever makes the most sense for the piece of choice.

There is more risk in leaving holes in your fabrics with these scenarios. On worsted and flannel, the weave is more likely to close up when you take the pin out. On fine open weaves, linen especially, it can leave a more permanent mark where the pin went through. If a jacket is precious and loosely woven, embellish at your own risk.

Two pins, and when to stop

One pin is the final touch. Two pins can work if they are different sizes and clearly related, such as larger piece at the buttonhole and something small near it. Three pins look like a costume.

The other pairing worth knowing: a lapel pin and a pocket square are not competing, because they are at different heights and different distances from the face. If a lapel pin and a boutonniere are competing, the flower wins.

There's plenty of places people can get creative with pin placements. Suit and coat lapels aren't that place, and too much experimenting just tells people you don't know how to wear a lapel pin.

Pin Sizes & Lapel Fit

Matching the lapel with the right size pin is half the battle. Here's a reference to keep pins from becoming under-noticed or overwhelming:

• Small/mini (.5"-.75"): Subtle, great for narrow/slim lapels (2"-2.75")
• Medium (.75"-1.25"): Most versatile, pairs with standard lapels (3"-3.5")
• Larger (1.25"-1.5"+): Bold for wider lapels (3.5"-5")

The exceptions to pin placements

A women's jacket buttons the other way, and the buttonhole is on the right. The pin follows the buttonhole, but the pin itself should also be an extension and celebration of a woman's femininity.

A double-breasted coat has a wide lapel and a much higher buttonhole. Sit the pin where the eye reads it, which is usually lower than the hole.

Hats have their own rules depending on the hat.

Bags, backpacks, guitar straps, and lanyards are your canvas.

As a side note, a name badge, a conference pass or anything somebody has to read goes on the right, because you shake hands with your right hand and the other person's eye follows the arm up. That is the one case where the placement inverts, and elevates impressions at conferences and trade shows.

Occasions

Placement is one thing; the pin used is another. Here's a quick guide on the right pin for the job.

Quick Tips Across Occasions

• Match metals & colors to the rest of your outfit
• Let the pin embellish your outfit, but not distract
• Workplace/semi-formal: use a more discreet piece

Lord's Day / Church Events

Choose pins that are respectful & understated. A small-to-medium pin in muted tones is best (e.g. navy, burgundy, silver). A safe pick is always a subtle cross or plain flower bloom to show reverence without stealing focus.

Weddings

For the Groom: A boutonniere is the timeless choice, but a floral lapel pin is the next best option. Coordinate with your bride-to-be on what's best for your wedding theme.

For the Wedding Party: Floral lapel pins (or boutonnieres) in colors that tie to the theme of the wedding are best. Medium size pins (~1") for impact are great for celebrating, but check with the groom first.

For Guests: Coordinate your pins with your tie and pocket squares of choice, depending on dress code.

Formal Events (Black Tie, Galas, Business)

Elegant metal pins or subtle florals will be your friend. Match metal to your timepiece, watch, tie bar or any other metal accessories (all gold or all silver). Neutral or complementary colors with your medium-sized pins keep your outfit polished, professional, and create conversation starters.

Funerals/Memorials

Somber & respectful. Smaller, simple pins in dark/neutral tones (black, silver, antique finishes). Avoid bright florals or large statement pieces. Less is more.

Takeaway

Lapel pins are a fantastic means for expressing who you are, what you believe, and what you're proud of, all without saying a word. What you wear, how you wear it, and when you wear it is an expression on its own, so how you express these things through your personal Reserve is up to you.

- Donald S. Osborn